.300 H&H Mag. – Hornady Cases
Hornady’s brass cases offers re-loaders excellent uniformity in wall thickness, weight, and internal capacity. The cases allow proper seating of the bullet, not only in the case, but in the chamber as well.
50 Count Box
Just to “bracket” your production date, attached are some photos of a pretty nice (actually very nice) transition M70 300 MAGNUM standard rifle (SN 84113) that Dave Morris recently sold on GI (not to me, sadly). Note especially the smooth undrilled bridge of the early type II H&H length actions. A ’46 M70 will PROBABLY have a rust blued barrel with a pre-war date (factory using up pre-war parts while tooling-up for post-war production):
.300 h&h magnum
That’s too bad… You’re right that, despite 300 H&H MAGNUM being amongst the most common M70 chamberings from 1936-63, “300 MAGNUM” M70s with the cloverleaf tang (type I pre-war or type II transition) are hard to find unaltered (especially due to aftermarket recoil pads and D&T bridges). Consequently, they are getting pretty pricey these days.
FWIW… It’s my opinion that type I or II M70s (cloverleaf tang) in H&H length should not be D&T on the bridge (illustrated in photos above). In fact, one can find type III rifles in H&H MAGNUM chamberings (300 or 375) up to around S/N 170000 that lack holes (although by that time they are mixed in with factory drilled ones).
I’m sure you know this, but in case other potential M70 shoppers do not… When shopping for a M70 in 300 H&H MAGNUM, always have a piece of 300 Weatherby Magnum brass in your pocket. Ditto 22 Kilborne Hornet brass if considering a 22 HORNET. Since these two cases were made by fire forming, rechambered M70s that are not marked as such are surprisingly common!!!
Better luck with the next one!!!
If I may coat-tail this thread, please. I am in a quandary regarding a 3-digit, 300 H&H that has crossed my path. It is a bull gun, but, has some issues that I cannot rectify.
1) Winchester proof mark. The one on the barrel does not match up to ANY on the receiver. Receiver has NO proof mark. This seems very strange to me. Did this ever happen?
2) Bolt has correct pre-war safety, but, doesn’t show an electric penciled serial number. No trace. Striations along the length obsure any markings.
3) Receiver bridge has 4 drilled holes; 2 forward and 2 aft.
Is this a cleverly constructed fake?
Thank you for your input.